Monday, June 21, 2010
A Day Devoted to the Locality of the Upper Valley
Sunday, June 13, 2010
You Know You're in New England When...
Monday, May 24, 2010
Lessons Learned From a Weekly Fish Dinner
Thus, was my harshly disappointing experience eating farmed fish. For ethical reasons I obviously can't promote always choosing wild over farm-raised, but from now on I am going to be even pickier... My parents will be so happy!
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Low and Slow: Rediscovering the Flavor of Meat
OK, so where am I going with this? Well, a few weeks ago my mom and I made a Sunday trip to the Hanover Coop in search of our dinner for the evening. My mom made an enquiry at the butchery about getting a locally-sourced piece of pork, which was how we came away with a bone-in shoulder end roast (one that included the very tip of the loin and rib bones) and corresponding instructions to cook it at a low temperature over several hours. Needless to say I had been rather unenthusiastic about the thought of a pork roast for dinner, but given my keen desire to continue my cooking self-education - especially in the meat domain - I was rather eager to have a go at preparing our Sunday roast.
The preparation of the pork was really easy. I combined a couple of tablespoons of olive oil with some garlic, thyme, and essential seasoning then rubbed the mixture onto the exterior of the 2.5 pounds of meat that had already been trimmed of any excess fat. I then placed the roast into a preheated 350-degree oven and simply let it be for a near 2 hours until it reached a temperature of, more or less, 155 degrees. At this point I could remove it from the oven and let it rest on a cutting board for about 10 minutes while I deglazed the cooking pan and prepared an accompanying jus. Immediately before serving I brought out my very infrequently used carving set and proceeded to cut the roast into thick slices between the rib bones. Low and behold and much to my pleasure I began to salivate, and wholly welcomed the decadent sight of juicy and tenderly-cooked meat. Moreover when I sat down to completely indulge in the tasting experience of my roast, I hardly noticed the jus or anything else on my plate so much I was captivated by the pure flavors of the local, naturally-raised meat.
If that experience alone wasn't enough to convince me that meat does in fact hold a very desirable appeal to me, I have since roasted a whole chicken in a similar low and slow fashion following the ideas of a recipe I found in Italian Two Easy, Simple Recipes from the London River Cafe, by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers. Although I chose to enhance the flavor of my local free-range 3.5 pound chicken with fresh sprigs of tarragon and garlic rather than the rosemary and sage the recipe called for, and only rubbed 1 tablespoon of butter onto the skin rather than the instructed 10, I pretty much obeyed the cooking instructions to the letter. After preheating the oven to 200 degrees, cleaning the chicken, and seasoning and stuffing the cavity with my enhancers; I placed the chicken up-side-down in a heavy-duty pan, added a little under a cup of water, and put the lot into the oven for the first hour. For hour two I turned the chicken onto its right side, and for hour three onto its left. For the final stage I removed the chicken from the oven, turned the oven up to 400 degrees, rubbed my tablespoon of butter into the chicken, seasoned it, and added half a cup of dry vermouth to the pan. The chicken then went back into the oven for a final half hour at the higher temperature to obtain a golden hue and crisp exterior. Exactly as with the pork, the flavor, tenderness, and juiciness, of the chicken was incomparable to a lot of the roast chickens I've had in my past.
Although I have no doubt that a meat's best flavors and textures may truly be obtained via other cooking methods, I think mine is a palette strictly for the low and slow method. Here's to a lot of advanced planning, simple preparation, and, I say this with truth, meaty goodness!!!
Friday, April 30, 2010
Smuttynose Beer Dinner - Murphy's on the Green, Hanover
I, by no means, consider myself close to being a connoisseur of beers and ales, so please excuse the absence of much commentary on that side of the meal, and accept the opinions I do offer with a grain of salt!
The dinner opened with the Smuttynose seasonal offering, The Hanami Ale, which was described as having a tart, cherry flavor. Our opening course to harmonize the beer was a "Scallops Sashimi," served with sweet soy, radish, and house pickled ginger. The scallops were pleasantly fresh and had a nice bite and did not require the elaborate accompaniments suggested; which turned out to be a good thing, as the house pickled ginger seemed to be missing from the plate anyways and the radish hardly presented any added flavor. As for the ale, I felt it was a bit strong bodied for the soft sweetness of the scallops and was missing a nice dry and crisp white varietal.
Next on the menu came a "Colorado Lamb Tar Tar" paired with The Brown Dog Ale, which was a pleasant surprise. Firstly, I was quite partial to the darker ale which was certainly hoppy, but proved a nice step away from the tartness of its predecessor, and secondly the lamb tar tare was in no way overpowering in meat flavor or texture. In fact the morsels could have almost melted in the mouth without a lingering taste of lamb or even of the minced shallots and garlic. Accompanying the meat was the yolk of a quail egg, a horseradish aoli, and brioche toasts, which made the dish the overall winner of the night for me. The fatty nature of the egg yolk and aoli combined with the crispiness of the brioche toasts created a beautiful medley of taste and texture without too much of a powerful note from the horseradish.
Course number three was the one I had been looking forward to the most, and perhaps, for that reason, was the one that disappointed me the most. "Pan Seared Pacific Halibut Cheeks" were paired with The IPA. Because I have no affinity for IPAs from any brewer, I chose to hardly touch the beer except to sample the pairing with the dish. The Halibut cheeks themselves were certainly fresh and had a nice mellow flavor, but while they were nice and crispy in texture on the outside they were brutally overcooked and dry within. The additions to the dish were fresh mango, cracked coriander and young cilantro, which in the case of the first and the last were hardly distinguishable, and in the case of the seeds were unpleasantly sharp and inconsistent in both flavor and texture - too much coriander at one point and then lingering shards of seed in one's teeth! All in all not a course I would recommend that Murphy's put on its nightly menu.
The fourth and final savory course was "Fennel Crusted Sweetbreads" served with fresh morel mushrooms, house made duck prosciutto, and a parsnip puree. This was paired with The Big IPA, which given my impartiality to the standard IPA was also hardly touched on my part - fortunately my partner for the evening was willing to tackle it on my behalf! Nevertheless, the sweetbreads were as deliciously rich as could be, and further complemented by a creamy bed of parsnip puree and blanquette-like sauce. Unfortunately the "fresh" morel mushrooms were a disappointment as they appeared to actually be the dried variation improperly soaked so that they were unpleasantly crisp, but the duck prosciutto made for a nice compromise adding saltiness and bight to the dish that otherwise could have been slurped rather than chewed.
Our final course, though superbly creative and promising in taste and texture, was a bit of a let down. "Tempura Banana 'Sushi'" rather than being pieces of crisply coated soft and caramelized banana, was more like banana baby food. However it was wrapped in the traditional format of seaweed and sushi rice, and was a lot of fun to play with - something I always find appealing in my food. The caramel crispies mentioned in the description seemed to be missing, but given the soggy nature of the banana coating they were likely a necessary addition to the plate. However there was a type of pickled or marinated cabbage accompaniment that came as a surprising bonus! The Robust Porter was the chosen brew, but in my taste was too strong and hearty in flavor and body to pair well with the delicacy that is sushi.
Thus, you have my review of my first and perhaps not last beer dinner at Murphy's. I think the boys in the kitchen have a good thing going for them and they should pursue their creativity and attention to local, seasonal, and flavorful food!
Friday, March 26, 2010
Billionaire's Turtle Square
Shortbread Base: From Gourmet Magazine March 1999
3/4 cups unsalted butter
2 cups flour
1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/2 tsp salt
1) Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit
2) Slice the butter into 1/4-inch pats. Put the remaining ingredients into a food processor and process them until well blended. Add the butter pats and pulse until the mixture forms small lumps.
3) Turn the mixture out into a 13x9x2-inch baking pan and press it down evenly using the back of a metal spatula. Bake the shortbread until golden, about 30 minutes. Put on a wire rack and allow to cool to room temperature in the pan.
Hazelnut Caramel: From Bon Apetit February 2010
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
2/3 cup heavy cream
4 tblsp butter (can be either salted or unsalted, but if using unsalted be sure to add 1/2 tsp of salt when mixing in the final ingredients)
2 tsp cider vinegar
1 1/3 cups hazelnuts, toasted, husked, and coarsely chopped
1) Combine the sugar and water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Turn the heat up to high and allow to boil without stirring until the syrup reaches 375 to 380 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer (or until it turns a medium amber color, which should take about 8 minutes).
2) Remove the pan from the heat then add the cream and stir slowly over a low heat until the mixture homogenizes. Add the butter (with the salt if necessary), and the vinegar and stir until the butter melts.
3) Finally stir in the hazelnuts and pour the caramel over the cooled shortbread base. Cool until the caramel sets - this can take a while at room temperature so you may choose to refrigerate the two layers to speed up the process.
Chocolate Ganache:
2/3 cup heavy cream,
8 oz semi-sweet chocolate. chopped (Callebaut is a great brand)
1) Heat the cream in a saucepan until it just begins to boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add the chocolate, and stir the cream and chocolate together until they are smooth.
2) Spread the ganache over the cool caramel and spread it so that it covers evenly. Chill the completed dessert until the ganache sets
You may cut the completed dessert into squares of your desired size if they are to be served straight away, but my family and I have preferred to just cut into the dessert whenever our hearts desire as the caramel can become runny.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
A Winter Farmer's Market Lunch




Another vendor my parents and I are quite fond of for their wide range of meats is Hogwash Farm. Here we always manage to find at least one or two products that prove both flavoursome and sustainable - requirements that I demand of most of my food at this stage - as their meats are all from their locally raised heritage animals. This time we walked away with a large pork roast - not my favourite but something I would eat given the reputable source - as well as with a packet of succulent looking strips of streaky bacon.
Ingredients: For the Salad
1 small jerusalem artichoke (also call sunchokes), washed and grated
1 small beetroot, peeled and grated
1 small carrot, peeled and grated
3-4 Boston lettuce leaves, washed (optional)
parsley, chopped
For the Dressing
1 tblsp cider vinegar
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
1/2 tsp maple syrup
3 tblsp vegetable oil
salt and pepper to taste
1) Combine the cider vinegar, mustard, and maple syrup in a small bowl, and then slowly drizzle in the oil while whisking to create and homogenous dressing. Season with the salt and pepper
2) Mix together all the grated root vegetables in one bowl then toss with most of the dressing so that it coats the salad evenly.
3) Lay the Boston lettuce leaves (if you choose to use them) on a plate and drizzle the remaining dressing over them. Top the leaves with the grated, dressed vegetables and sprinkle over as much chopped parsley as you would like.
For a more complete lunch I paired my salad with a toasted slice of La Panciata's honey and oat bread, on which I spread a small helping of french chicken liver pate... YUMMY:)


